Marlow’s Tavern

A small equipment package, which leaves more than 60 percent of the tavern's space for seating, allows staff to be efficient in the back of the house as they prepare eclectic tavern fare.

By Donna Boss, Contributing Editor -- Foodservice Equipment and Supplies, 2/1/2008

Creating a neighborhood tavern and taking it into the 21st century is the vision of the owners of Marlow's Tavern, a full-service, fast-casual concept in Atlanta and the surrounding areas. The first unit opened in November 2004 in Alpharetta, Ga., the second in Vinings in April 2005, the third in midtown Atlanta in August 2007, and the fourth in December 2007 in Kennesaw.

"We've been called an upscale 'Cheers,' from the TV show," says John Metz Jr., chef owner of Marlow's Tavern, Hi Life Kitchen and Cocktails, and Aqua Blue restaurants, as well as a contract management provider. "Our mission is to deliver affordable luxury to the neighborhoods we serve with world-class hospitality in every aspect of our business."

A self-declared fan of "hole-in-the-wall" bars and neighborhood "dive" restaurants, Metz says he and his partners researched many establishments in the United States before opening Marlow's Tavern. "We didn't want to have an Irish pub, but we did want to offer fresh ingredients and food that is better than what is found in most taverns," Metz says. "We want to surprise our guests with flavor profiles and the uniqueness of various dishes."

The menu features hand-cut tavern fries; sizzlin' feta; calamari; shrimp and crab nacho plate; firecracker shrimp; hot and sweet wings; chicken queso soup; tavern flatbread; Southwestern grouper; grilled Atlantic salmon; pork "porterhouse," steak and eggs; Columbian skirt steak; grilled chicken capellini; jalapeño corn grits; burgers; and fish tacos. For dessert, guests can order crème brûlée, root beer floats and a combination of tasting options such as carrot cake, rockslide brownie and key lime pie.

Upon entering Marlow's, guests soon realize their experience will be out of the ordinary. Table servers or the general manager greet guests and show them to their tables. "We don't have designated hosts and hostesses per se," says Jeff Trent, general manager of the downtown Atlanta tavern. "This removes one barrier of hospitality. The servers must be welcoming right away whether they are seating guests at their tablesor another server's table. So, they are always greeting people."

"The lines are clean and there is a rich feeling about the interior to provide a distinct contrast between the hectic world outside and the warm ambiance on the inside," Metz says. A black motif on old Chicago brick; wrought iron; a color scheme with warm reds, yellows and greens; lamp shade chandeliers covered with fabric; and soft lighting contribute to the ambiance. At the midtown tavern, accordion windows imported from Germany open up from the inside to the outside patio, allowing outdoor dining when the weather cooperates.

Another distinguishing interior design touch is large, six-foot-bythree- foot photographs of various sections of Atlanta buildings and architectural icons. "If you live in Atlanta, it's a guessing game to figure out which buildings you're looking at," Trent says.

A large television hangs in the bar, but is positioned so as not to be intrusive. "We don't want the tavern to be classified as a sports bar, though guests can watch sports here if they want," Metz says. "On special occasions like the Super Bowl, we'll turn up the volume, but we'll lower it during commercials."

The kitchens range in size from 500-square-feet to 1,000-squarefeet. At the newer taverns, though the layout is similar to older kitchens, more square feet were added to the expo line to accommodate more refrigeration for mise en place. "The small footprint allows us to increase production in a limited space," Trent says.

The size of the kitchen is determined by the number of menu items. "Our goal is to offer less than 28 menu items, so we have flexibility to offer great specials as well as regularly featured foods," Metz says. The menu changes three times a year toincorporate seasonal and local foods into the mix.

Products arrive at the loading dock where staff collect and distribute them to a walk-in cooler, stand-up freezers and dry storage. Dishmachines sit nearby. In the prep kitchen, staff use two worktables, a convection oven for crème brûlée, house-made croutons and potato leak stuffing, and a 15-gallon steam kettle for from-scratch soups. A hand mixer blends salad dressings.

The expo center is Metz's favorite area of the kitchen. The custom-made equipment includes cold rails, refrigeration, a plating area, dish storage and stainless-steel counters. Panini machines sit on the counters to heat pita bread served with hummus, and the Frisco Club with grilled chicken breast, applewood-smoked bacon, romaine lettuce, shaved apple and red onion slaw on a sourdough bun. The panini press also heats the tortillas comprising the buffalo chicken wraps featuring spicy chicken with jalapeño cheese and ranch dressing.

A conveyor oven is the kitchen's workhorse, cooking everything from nachos and broiled salmon to flatbread, one of the newest menu items. Metz selected this piece of equipment because he likes the jets of hot air that surround the food and provide an efficient transfer of heat at lower temperatures while products move on a chain-driven conveyor.

"The conveyor oven requires very little supervision to operate," Trent says. "Food moves along the conveyor at the same speed so it eliminates the probability that it will over- or undercook."

Nearby, three fryers sizzle calamari, firecracker shrimp, buffalo-style chicken wings and fresh potato french fries cooked to order. Adjacent to the fryers are a flat top for use on Sundays to make hash brown potatoes, pancakes and french toast.

The adjacent grill cooks Atlantic salmon, fish tacos, steak for black and blue steak salad, chicken breasts and marinated Columbian skirt steak, a recent menu addition served with potato leak stuffing, green beans and wild mushroom cognac reduction. Staff also fire up the grill for the pork porterhouse, a high-demand item that replaced the rib eye.

On the six-burner range, staff prepare pasta for dishes such as grilled chicken capellini, sauté Southwestern-style grouper and cook steak and eggs. A salamander assists with melting cheese on burgers and other menu items needing a quick sizzle.

The appetizer station sits across from the fryers. Here, staff assemble oven-baked feta cheese with roasted tomato, basil pesto and Ciabatta crostinis; J.T.'s Kettle Chips covered with blue cheese, bacon, tomato and scallions; calamari; shrimp and crab nachos; hot and sweet wings; and fiery crawfish fondue. Staff also assemble sandwiches including the buffalo chicken wrap, fish tacos, lamb tenderloin wrap and Frisco Club.

Even the full-service bar features a touch of humanity missing in many new establishments. "The beverage director, Mike Stachura, has adopted an old-time corner-bar mentality," Trent says. "Rather than use mechanical equipment, he shakes martinis and hand-mixes cocktails, adding a little showmanship to his craft."

Challenges always present themselves at dining establishments and Marlow's is no exception. For instance, at the downtown tavern, which sits in a high-rise building, the hood system had to be stronger to meet the building's codes. In addition, Marlow's staff must work with other restaurant tenants occupying space in the building to coordinate grease-trap usage and garbage removal.

As Marlow's continues to grow, word is spreading throughout the Atlanta area about the neighborhood tavern where fresh and often unexpected menu items are a featured attraction. Given the ambitious menu, the small kitchen footprint challenges staff to work efficiently with the equipment to turn out menu items that meet the owners' high standards. The classification "tavern" is unquestionably in the midst of a re-invention.